Travel
The Bazaars of Amritsar
by NIMRATA ANAND
Since time immemorial, the immediate vicinity of the Darbar Sahib in Amritsar has housed numerous markets around its periphery. These markets were known for offering quality goods, and were completely dependent on the Sikh shrine for their business.
These bazaars, which earned popularity during those times, included the Mai Sewan Bazaar, Jhootha Bazaar and Kathiya Bazaar.There are, however, miles of additional bazaars in the gullees and warrens spreading in concentric circles emanating from the Darbar Sahib complex, not unlike the souks of the Middle-East.
One of the original markets came to be known as the Jhootha Bazaar because it was believed that everything else was materialistic and hence ephemeral, the real beauty was "Sachkhand" - the Darbar Sahib.
The Jhootha Bazaar started in the sixteenth century and had a very narrow lane.
Another famous bazaar was the Kathiya Wala Bazaar, which was located in the backdrop of Akal Takht. The market was started in 1620 just after Guru Hargobind Singh had passed an edict (hukumnama) to bring only horses and weapons as offerings.
The Mai Sewan Bazaar started early in the Ranjit Singh era.
It was Maharaja Ranjit Singh who dedicated this bazaar to a lady named Mai Sewan, who very sincerely did "seva", which means service, in the Harmandar Sahib. She was the wife of a military commande,r Fateh Singh Kaaliawaala.
The original area of the Mai Sewan Bazaar was 400 square feet.
The Jhootha Bazaar was popular among women for embroidery, lace work, Punjabi juttis, artificial jewellery, whereas the Khatiya Bazaar specialized in leather goods.
The Mai Sewan Bazaar had shops of drafting material. It used to have four printing presses, sweets shops and bookshops.It also had a Haathi Khaana where Maharaja Ranjit Singh's elephants would be parked during his visit to the Darbar Sahib.
Today the markets that exist, though not with the same flourish, are the Mai Sewan Bazaar and the Kathiya Wala Bazaar. In fact, these markets ‘exist more in name' in the sense that the old name has been retained, but the markets have registered numerous changes.
The Mai Sewan Wala Bazaar has the Udasi Akhaara and the Sangal Wala Akhara - started by Sri Chand.
The residence of the Mahant of the Golden Temple, which was given by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, was demolished some years ago. With it was also lost the building that had archaeological value. Now, a new serai is being constructed at that place.
The Kathiya Wala Bazaar has become the market of paints, sanitary fittings and hardware goods.
[Based on the original article in The Tribune]
October 18, 2010
Conversation about this article
1: Gobinder Singh (California, U.S.A.), October 18, 2010, 4:29 PM.
Ah-h-h ... a nice reminder of those narrow lanes of markets around Harmandar Sahib. Wasn't aware of Jhoota Bazaar. Was it the one behind Guru Ramdas Saraa(n) entrance? Can someone shed some light on the famous Katras of Amritsar in the same vicinity, Katra Jaimal Singh being the most famous one with clothing stores? There was Katra Sher Singh, Katra Ahluwalia and a number of others. Probably from the Misal period.
2: Sangat Singh (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia), October 18, 2010, 5:50 PM.
What zestful life Amritsaris must be leading, meandering their way through those quaint, crowed bazaars that are replete with history. Judging from the crowds, it must be a mandatory walk that would mostly end up in Harimandar Sahib, with undiminished fervor.
3: Dr. Birinder Singh Ahluwalia (Toronto, Ontario, Canada), October 19, 2010, 8:00 AM.
Amritsari kulchey, paaparrh-warrih, machhi, lassi, lachha paraanthaa. laddoos, pinnees ... Amritsar's 'Kundan da Dhaba', 'Turban Shop', 'Bhaapey di Hatti'... Darbar Sahib's Gurpurab and Diwali celebrations ... I can go on and on re Amritsar and it's amazing culinary, social and spiritual life (Guru ki Nagri!). What a mesmerizing experience during my upbringing there. Am I being biased here? NA-A-a-a! There is no other place like it!
4: Artika Bakshi (Sri Lanka), October 19, 2010, 9:37 AM.
Lovely article. Though I belong to Amritsar, I had no idea about the history of its bazaars. They still exist, but it's sad that we don't know how to preserve history. Would be nice if an initiative was taken to keep the historical city of Amritsar clean.
5: Hardip Singh (Cary, North Carolina, U.S.A.), October 20, 2010, 3:06 PM.
All bazaars were existing around the Darbar Sahib when I was growing up and studying in Amritsar in the 40's - 50's. They were flourishing and doing a very high level of business during these years. If some one was interested in seeing beautiful and fashionable Amritsari ladies, one went to Jhoota Bazar, where women would visit to buy fake jewelery, along with other beauty and make-up stuff, as well to buy woolens. A lot of embroidery shops also existed in in this bazaar, where women could get their garments embroidered. The artists were mostly from Kashmir. I have visited this and other bazaars with my mother a number of times. The comments by Dr. Birinder Singh Ahluwalia from Toronto, Canada, brought water in my mouth, when he referred to the kulchas, chhole bhaturey and lassi, etc. being sold in the vicinity of the Darbar Sahib. These caterers were doing booming business selling these delicacies. People love to visit these eateries with family and friends to enjoy the spicy finger-foods. What a life it used to be! I can't forget those wonderful days I spent as a young man in Amritsar. Right outside the Ghanta Ghar (Bell Tower) gate of the Darbar Sahib, there used to be a soda shop (if I remember correctly, it was called Ami Chand's Soda Shop). They used to serve very tasty Dudh (milk) Soda with different flavours in "goli-wali" soda bottles. It was always fun to go there and drink delicious Dudh Soda. Oh, how can I ever forget Amritsari ras malaai, faluda kulfi and Chhole bhaturey?
6: Wren Martin (London, England), January 15, 2012, 9:51 AM.
Being a correspondence of the weekly, LIFE, I visited Amritsar city. Although it is a city area, but there is existing a village culture of East Punjab. There was a heavy rush in all the bazaars, but one point is noted that such bazaars existed on good, wide roads instead of narrow streets. Every shop looks most cleaned and items are displayed very beautifully in the shop. The shop keepers are respectful of their customers in the most polite way and give fixed prices of their wares. They sold good quality items. Similarly, all Sikh businessmen were the most sincere hosts and they respected their guests in the most heartiest way and also treated them well as their guests. When any guest or stranger comes to see a Sardar, he take his guest directly into the living room where the female members of his family are sitting in the same living room for watching TV, or other routine work. The ladies are not observing any purdah from their guests and they are most free to talk with guests. The guests are treated very well and delicious dishes are served. We were much impressed by this good treatment. We found every Sardar respectful and behaving very well with guests because of the culture of Punjab.
7: Wren Martin (London, United Kingdom), June 20, 2012, 7:50 AM.
In the bazaar, I have seen most of the Sikh ladies having long plaits of hair, only two were seen wearing bobbed hair style. But all were wearing salwar-kameezes and duppattas.