Travel

Ten Days in Xanadu

by DYA SINGH

 

 

Xanadu - a place of extreme beauty, luxury and contentment. [Dictionary]

 

 

On 19 April, 2011 I travelled from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur. I had been invited to conduct a Sikh wedding ceremony in Malaysia.

On the very next morning, as is my normal routine once there, I went to Batu Caves (limestone caves housing a south Indian Hindu temple complex) for a dosa and tea and then onto the Selayang Hot Springs for a hot soak, but there the real reason for my trip to Malaysia began to manifest.

I slipped, fell and tore some sort of ligament in my right knee called a 'meniscus'. My good friend Menjit, whom I always stay with in Malaysia, drove me straight to my doctor who recommended an immediate MRI - a sort of 3-dimensional X-ray.

Diagnosis: I needed immediate surgery. Long story short - I spent the next week right through the Easter (which really means very little in Malaysia!) in considerable discomfort, into surgery (full anaesthesia) and another week in hospital recovering. I certainly was not going to conduct any weddings!

This is where the true reason for my being here came to light - ten days in an enchanting place, laid back, set back in time - my idea of paradise on earth! Perhaps Malaysia's one well kept secret and it is off the normal tourist path.

Menjit decided to drive me to his wife's village which is on the north-eastern corner of the border between peninsular Malaysia and Thailand near the coast of the South China Sea, in the sleepy state of Kelantan.

The first thing I noticed here was that the sky was clear blue and one could see for miles! There is no smog or air pollution here! And most people have smiles on their faces.

Let me firstly attempt to describe this place.

Kelantan is one state on peninsular Malaysia which has been ruled for over three decades by an opposition party called PAS which is all-Muslim, with true peaceful Muslim ideals. All races/ religions are treated very well and live in peace and harmony. This border region is predominantly Thai Buddhist.

Most residents hold a dual travel pass because most have lands on both sides of the border. There are some magnificent sprawling Buddhist spiritual complexes called 'wats' (think Angkor Wat) with cleanshaven monks dressed in saffron or white. The Buddhist residents - all simple happy country folk have to go through a 6-month novice monk training in these wats as part of their passage into adulthood and some of course remain monks for the rest of their lives.

The region also has mosques, other Chinese temples, a beautiful (south Indian) Hindu temple, a gurdwara (in Tumpat) and other places of worship. I believe there are some Bahais too. Life is simple but plentiful as this is also possibly one of the most fertile regions I have seen. It is hot/ humid tropical with cool breezes coming in from the South China Sea from the east and the main range of mountains - the backbone of peninsular Malaysia on the west. So, literally, plant a twig and it will probably take root and turn green in no time!

Tall swaying coconut palms and other tropical fruit trees like durians, mangoes, mangosteens, duku, langsat, guavas, papayas (pawpaws). Pineapples on the ground. Bananas ... and so on. Rice-paddy fields as far as the eye can see and thick lush green tropical vegetation. A large variety of birds from tiny tweeters to scavenging crows and hawks in the sky busy themselves throughout the day, and large spiders mend their webs high up in the trees; medium sized giant monitor lizards crawling about foraging; the odd tortoise wandering out of water; squirrels in the trees; and the odd snake.

The skies are blue because the smog from Indonesia does not reach these parts. On most afternoons you see clouds gathering in the distance with thunder and lightening - sometimes it comes over or at best sends down a cool breeze. At night the clear sky is lit up with millions of bright stars!

The food is fresh, organic and tasty. It is simple, community, village living.

There is a monsoon season when rains come down in bucket loads and there are floods. The locals are used to all that and in fact welcome them because they cleanse the region periodically and prepare the ground for planting crops - of market produce and rice. Water is used from wells and boiled for drinking. So, no water bills!

Incidently, being the border region, there is, of course - duty free, for those so inclined!

My ten days turned out to be a magical experience - meditative, reflective, laid-back, certainly therapeutic and set me thinking about future 'retreats' with those interested. Most importantly, I will swear that time appeared to stand still. But first, read on ...

With my surgeried knee, it was a slow easy journey from Kuala Lumpur to here. It takes about 9 hours. I had my leg propped up on the back seat - but I was fine, with plenty of local fruits, fruit juices and water, on the way.

One night before we travelled Menjit received news that his wife's oldest relative - in fact the oldest resident of the region - had died that night. A reason was provided for him and his wife to go to attend the cremation. The deceased uncle was 104.

So we went straight to the wat where his body was lying in state. Relatives from both sides of the border were already milling. There were already a good 300 of them there. Food in abundance was being prepared and monks did occasional chanting by the body, which was laid in state in a rather unusual refrigerated coffin which had a see-through glass on it with beautiful lighting in it so that the face of the deceased could be viewed.

There followed a three day 'wake' which was an experience in itself, like a kickstart to some interesting experiences in a greater awareness of the present moment, visualisation and meditation (naam simran). It was akin to the three-day Sikh prayer ceremony called 'akhand paatth' except that the praying/ chanting was not continuous but intermittent.

Menjit has decided that this is where he wishes to build his retirement home and meanwhile has rented (the rental is ridiculously cheap!) a lovely home with a balcony area from which you can see for miles and through the trees, the horizon, looking south, is almost at eye level, above flat paddy fields.

The spiritual atmosphere intensified over the first two days as the monks chanted at intervals and people came in and out. At night all attendees just slept wherever there was space because being a warm tropical region, all you need is a very light blanket and something for a pillow and one can sleep in the spacious verandahs, inside the various pagoda-like buildings, on platforms built under tree canopies or just free standing 'gazebos' which are dotted throughout the 'wat'.

In fact in this village there are three such wats within walking distance.

The monks (about 15 of them) present themselves for breakfast at about 7 am where they are ceremoniously fed before they go and chant for about an hour near the body lying in state. Their second and final solid meal for the day is at about 1 pm, again in ceremony and they chant again with most people joining them. Another chanting session at
about 6 pm, and a final one at 9 pm. People move around in groups talking or praying, cooking or eating or just soaking up the atmosphere. One can find many quiet corners to sit and meditate if so inclined or just spend time in reflection.

The heat and humidity is interspersed with the occasional cool breeze and/or a light shower At night the mosquitoes trouble you for a short period at dusk and then disperse. A light 'mozzie' repellent does come in very handy. The country folk do not seem to be overly bothered by them.

I spend the first day either hobbling around, just sitting around either inside the pagoda, enjoying the delicious food and amazing sweet dishes, or outside under the trees in a semi-state of blissful meditation. (For sweet-making, they use very dark brownish-black treated molasses called 'gula-melaka').

By the second day the crowd has swelled to about 500 and there is some urgency in the air. The chanting is more intense and after the mid-day prayer a small lorry backs up to the pagoda where the body lies in state. The crowd gathers in silence and amidst chanting the body is finally carried out in a beautiful wooden coffin. Then, with a final burst of chanting and a very poignant prayer after which everyone bows deeply, touching their foreheads on the ground or fully prostrating themselves in the direction of the body, the cortege moves off with people scurrying behind to get onto bicycles, motorbikes and vehicles to head towards the cremation ground which is a short distance away in a small clearing within a fairly thick wooded area.

The main cremation is on a high concrete open platform on which are four high pillars holding the roof. There are steps leading up to it from three directions. The far end of the platform features two coal-fired kilns with one very high chimney piercing through the high pagoda-like roof serving both. On one side of this structure is another knee-high, roofed platform which can hold about 50 people seated crosslegged. All those present grab twigs from the trees or from the ground and also incense-sticks and colourful handkerchiefs made into flowers being handed out, and converge towards and up onto the main crematorium. Meanwhile the monks position themselves crosslegged on the lower platform.

Everyone climbs the stairs, files up to the coffin placed in front of the kilns on a concrete table and pays last respects, placing the twigs and incense sticks and cloth flowers into the coffin. The sons and daughters of the deceased, wearing white head-scarfes, then pay their final respects and a few tears are shed.

The coffin is then borne into one of the kilns which has been fired up and the monks begin their final chanting. People find whatever space they can, anywhere - behind the monks; on the steps of the cremation stupa; on the grass; on tree trunks or fallen trees; alongside their motor bikes; under trees; and sit down for about ten minutes in silent prayer listening to the monks and occasionally answering them in unison, as the coffin starts to burn. The monks then lower their chanting and slowly people start dispersing.

More festivities that night while almost everyone stays on to exchange gossip and pleasantries. The ashes are collected that very evening and lie in an urn in the main pagoda for the night. At 9 am the final morning everyone gathers in the main pagoda and after about half an hour of chanting, one by one some of the monks who knew the deceased; the sons and daughters of the deceased; and some close friends speak in Thai, either addressing the deceased or telling everyone some episodes of the deceased that they want to share - some rather funny because occasionally everyone smiles and laughs - each concluding by requesting the deceased to now leave for his next destination so that they can get on with their lives.

It is sad, funny, moving, touching and all full of love - all at the same time. The state's ruling Islamic political party was also represented and one official spoke and donated a tidy sum of money on behalf of the party for payment towards
the funeral costs.

Everyone ate lunch and slowly the crowds disperse as the close ones tackle the task of cleaning up.

For me it was like a kickstart for ten days of timeless meditation with few to disturb my tranquility because I did not speak their language, but all knew who I was - a close friend of one of their sons-in-law! Furthermore, Sikhs have earned a place of respect in this state because, firstly, at the turn of the 20th century, around 1903, the British had stationed a Sikh platoon as personal bodyguard to the Sultan of the state. The Sikhs also featured fighting the Japanese when they landed here at the start of WWII in December 1941. They also played a prominent part in the building of the railway, the only land link of this state with the rest of the peninsula during British times.

Then came my opportunity to truly relish the 'stay' in Menjit's home which is surrounded by all sorts of fruit trees and other lush vegetation. There is a narrow road in front of the house but otherwise plenty of greenery, trees and blue skies and warm weather.

I used to get up before the sun arose - spent some quality time on the porch ushering in the sun from the left, watching nature wake up and the surroundings come to life. Then a delicious breakfast and back to the porch in a comfortable chair exercising my leg and keeping a paper and pen handy to just write my thoughts and feelings; some forward planning and just getting lost in the lush and warm environment.

Periodically I used to waterproof my knee with some plastic bags (to keep the fresh surgical wounds and lacerations dry) and throw some cool water over my body in the fairly spartan bathroom from a huge tub which was filled directly from the well, to cool down. Plenty of pineapples, papayas and succulent mangoes kept being dropped off by passers-by. Word had of course got around that Menjit and family, and his abang (brother) were staying for about ten days.

Midday used to get pretty warm but I found that I could bear it because of the occasional cooling breeze. I stayed in a light sleep, dazed state in the afternoon, getting up occasionally to ease myself and again throw some cold water over my body and then heading straight back to the porch. Menjit also ensured that I was delivered a sweet young coconut to drink and devour every day.

Chichaks (house lizards) scurried on the ceiling, feeding on unwary flies which came within their reach or decided to land on the ceiling; the occasional monitor lizard used to lazily go about foraging in the undergrowth; the constant cacking of birds of various varieties; and hand-sized spiders working on the webs high up in the trees.

One day a sparrow flew into one of these webs and for some time there was some commotion as it struggled to free itself, which, to my relief, it finally did before the spider could get around to it.

Squirrels scurried up trees and jumped from one to another on their highways in their daily chores. Domesticated pigs with their young came around foraging for food; and stray dogs guarded their territories and snooped around or playfully fought, sometimes turning vicious with each other, judging by the yelps of the weaker ones. All dogs here are strays fed by everyone - so in the evenings they are eyeing their favourite houses, hoping for scraps to be thrown to them.The dogs here adopt you - not the other way round - and they are very territorial, chasing off any intruder dogs.

The tree canopy cuts out the glare of the midday sun. By the evening a cool breeze used to pick up and then a short awkward period at dusk with the 'mozzies' when the mosquito repellent came in handy.

As darkness fell Menjit used to join me on the porch and we had our final meal under a porch light before retiring for the night under a fan with a light blanket for coziness.

The oldest brother of Menjit's wife now looks after the house and occasionally stays there too, with his sleeping mat rolled up in one corner. He is a  Budhist spiritual healer - a sort of shaman. Villagers from far and wide consult him for various ailments for which he prescribes prayers and herbs and also silently carries out regular morning and evening prayers for himself, his family and his clientele.

He is almost 80, wiry fit; sleeps soundly on just a coconut matting on a hard floor with a rolled up sarong for a pillow, and cycles everyday to visit his flock or just do his daily rounds. An amazing, very jovial spiritual presence and a joy to have around. He had almost decided to become a monk but instead stayed on in civilian life but with a very strong spiritual calling. He was also considered one of the best exponents of their brand of Thai dancing in his heyday. In fact his picture is incorporated into one Kelantan cultural mural which is permanently preserved at the entrance to the Kelantan State Muzeum.

On the sixth day, I decided to get Menjit to drive me so that we could have a look at the capital Kota Bharu which is 25 km. south-east of this region and also because my good friend Bicky Singh from Los Angeles had requested for some 'batik' cloth so that he could make more colourful clothings for himself!

Kota Bharu is a small town on the east bank of the fairly broad Kelantan River but with a fair amount of contruction work going on. It has five different muzeums, factories making local handicraft; Kelantan's famous 'batik' cloth, some other historical buildings and a couple of well maintained parks and other facilites and sights which a state capital normally has, but with a laid back, old charm feel. A river front is in the process of being constructed, with a river walk and areas for night stalls.

I visited the War Museum which is pretty good, and even bought a book about the landing of the Japanese, at the start of WWII. I also decided to visit the state library but was thwarted in my attempt to find further information about the Japanese landing, British times and about Sikhs, because the library is run by non-English speaking employees who do not seem to know much about books in English, though there were some very interesting and old books and manuscripts on various subjects.

I could not wait to be back on the porch just enjoying nature from sunrise to sunset. I was hooked.

On the last three days there, the clouds used to darken in the distance with threatening thunder and lightning sending down some beautiful cool breezes, but it only really rained on one afternoon.

For me, time stood still as I watched nature do its thing. I watched pawpaws ripen on a tree in about five days from green to beautiful yellow and even had the joy of eating them! I watched the patience of the spiders as they weathered all the elements and waited patiently for what seemed an eternity for catch to sustain themselves. I watched a small tortoise lumbering around in the undergrowth and wondered where it came from. Birds used to land on the balcony, watching me curiously and then moving on with their lives.

I have never felt more relaxed and sometimes felt that I was barely breathing as I became one with nature. I found my bliss. Time stood still for me. My batteries are charged and I am ready to jump back into the foray of time-management, punctualities, programmes, concerts, datelines, daily routines and surburbia in Melbourne!

Kelantan has some of the best beaches in the world but due to my surgery I was not able to relish them this time but I am sure I shall be back.

I visualise Menjit building a wooden house high on stilts with room for about twenty people so that those interested can come and stay and experience what I experienced and more. I see bicycles for those who wish to travel close by - the closest beach is about 45 minutes away by bicycle and there are about 15 wats close by. I can see those coming also visiting the islands nearby to swim in crystal clear waters and further enjoying nature at its magnificent tropical best. I can see myself staying here for longer periods ...

The tangible good news healthwise - I lost 3 kgs. in weight in the period and my bowels were regular! This was probably because I was drinking plenty of plain water plus the daily coconut; plenty of other fruits and two main meals; no junk or overly sweetened food simply because all that is not available here!

I must bring my harmonium next time!

Maybe I can do all this again some day, with 'you' ...

P.S. - O yes, my knee is doing very well at the time of writing. The surgeons have given me the all clear but it will take a good 6 months before I can consider my knee fully functional ... and then I shall do a final 'walk' to complete my journey from Penang in the north to Singapore in the south. Maybe next year. Meditation (naam simran) is not prescriptive and should not be treated as a quick fix for immediate problems - but one has to start somewhere and then turn the exercise into a daily routine with periodical 'retreats', like I attempt to describe above, to taste the 'timeless', listen to your own self, and experience greater awareness of the present moment - the moment we live in. And, oh yes, all this is very very enjoyable and need not be a boring routine chore!

Finally, you do not have to break a leg to do this!
 

May 24, 2011

 

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