Travel

A Visit to Gurdwara Bangla Sahib:
New Delhi's Gurdwara Walk

ANNE KORDE

A GURDWARA WALK WILL BE HELD IN NEW DELHI ON SUNDAY, APRIL 14, 2013, AS PART OF THE VAISAKHI FESTIVAL.

THE FOLLOWING IS AN ARTICLE WRITTEN BY A RECENT VISITOR TO ONE OF THE TWO GURDWARAS ON THE TOUR SCHEDULE.




During a recent trip to India, I had the privilege of visiting the Gurdwara Bangla Sahib complex in New Delhi. 

After being dropped off at the main gate and following the route in, I quickly found myself at the Visitors’ Center where I was warmly welcomed.  An older Sikh gentleman approached me and asked if I would like to walk around by myself or if I would like to be escorted. I opted for the second option and was gently told that there were only two requests: to remove my shoes and to keep my head covered at all times.

The very basic tenets of Sikhism were explained to me in a way that was not overwhelming or judgmental; belief in One God, rejection of idol worship, the equality of all people, service to others and that one should aspire to lead an ethical life.

When we entered the main building we walked through a small amount of water to cleanse our feet. Volunteers were constantly changing the burlap mats that had been laid out on the steps for safety and hygiene. It was very apparent that this was an act of devotion on part of the volunteers.

As we entered I was shown the black-board where the day’s ‘selection’ from the Sikh Scripture, Guru Granth Sahib, was written.  At the commencement of each day the Scripture is opened at random and the first verse becomes the thought of the day.

The Guru Granth Sahib has been set to music and verses from it were being sung. The atmosphere inside was very serene and relaxed. It was obvious that the Sikh religious writings are deeply venerated, in a different and more emotional way than the Christians and their Bible.

Each evening around 10:00 pm there is a ceremony when the Guru Granth Sahib -- treated as the Living Word, and therefore as a living Guru -- is retired to an ornate bed, from where it is retrieved the next morning when another day-cycle begins.

Next we went to the large pond at the back of the complex called the sarovar.

This water is considered to be sacred because the Eighth Master, Guru Har Krishan came to this spot in 1664. During this period there was a terrible epidemic in Delhi and he supplied pure water to the people from this well. It is reputed that they were cured as a result. 

People of all ages were touching the water reverently. There was another place where one could have a drink of the water which many people were doing.  I joined others and took a walk around the sarovar.  In retrospect, I should have also had a drink of the water!

Our final visit was to the kitchen and dining hall called the Langar. The Langar is staffed primarily by volunteers and it serves over 20,000 meals daily. In Sikhism the serving of food to all visitors is central to their worship, as it administers to the physical needs, while prayer caters to the spiritual needs ... both being important.

It is a blessing to the volunteers that prepare and serve the food. It is also an example of the Sikh principle of sharing and equality; everyone sits together for the meals as equals.

The pots and pans are as big as bathtubs. People from all walks of life were working together mostly in a meditative repose as the whole facility was very quiet while preparing the food.  Even men from many walks of life were rolling rotis.

I felt extremely moved by the idea that any person regardless of their circumstances could come to the gurdwara and be fed. I know that this is not the main idea behind the Langar, but the hospitality aspect was very meaningful to me; that in a poor country food was available at the facility always free of charge to anyone, and that everyone would be treated with dignity. And, of course, this would also encompass people who are lonely and want companionship.

I had arrived at the gurdwara alone and was a little hesitant entering such an unknown place. It could not have been more welcoming. It is a very special and spiritual place. As a foreigner no one bothered me and I was really able to experience the wonderful spiritual atmosphere.

I have visited many religious places around the world and I would rank the Gurdwara Bangla Sahib at the top of the list for its spirituality and hospitality. 

When next in Delhi, I will certainly visit it again.


*   *   *   *   *

GURDWARA WALK: AN EMPIRICAL EXPERIENCE OF THE SIKH FAITH ON THE OCCASION OF VAISAKHI

On Sunday, April 14, 2013, as part of the Vaisakhi Festival, a Gurdwara Walk will be conducted from 11 am to 2 pm.

The two historic gurdwaras included in this walk are Gurdwara Rakabganj and Gurudwara Bangla Sahib … they are about 2 kms apart.

Participants will meet at Gurdwara Rakabganj. A brief history of the gurdwara will be given before beginning the tour of the premises.

Thereafter, the group will walk to Gurdwara Bangla Sahib where, after the historical introduction, the group will participate in the langar (communal meal).

Delhi has an integral link with the Sikh Faith owing not only to its close proximity to Punjab but also of the fact that five Sikh Gurus are connected with it. Ranging from the visit of the Founder of the Faith, Guru Nanak -- commemorated at the historic Gurdwara Nanak Piao -- to Gurdwara Mata Sundari, Delhi has been an important site in Sikh history with nine historic gurdwaras, two of which will be the focus of our walk. The walk will highlight and bring forth the richness of the values and culture embedded in the Sikh Faith. 

The site of Gurdwara Rakabganj marks the spot where the body of the Ninth Master, Guru Tegh Bahadar, was cremated after he was martyred at the site of  the now Sisganj Gurudwara in Old Delhi on the orders of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb for having refused to convert to Islam.

The Eighth Master, Guru Har Krishan resided at the site marked by Gurdwara Bangla Sahib during his visit to Delhi in 1664, where during a smallpox and cholera epidemic he helped the suffering by giving aid and fresh water from the well at this house. The water of the ‘sarovar’ is now revered as having healing properties.

The Sikh tradition of langar is, as in every other gurdwara in the world, a prominent part of this gurdwara‘s daily routine. In the tradition of equality for which this religion is revolutionary, all people, regardless of race, caste, religion or gender, may eat in the gurdwara kitchen (langar hall). The langar (food) is prepared and served by volunteers. 

Participants are requested to dress modestly, remove footwear outside and keep their heads covered within the precincts of the gurdwaras.

Participation in the Walk is by registration only. Please call 23746050 or email info@theatticdelhi.org. Meeting point at 11 am at Rakabganj Gurdwara, Main Gate, Pandit Pant Marg (opposite Parliament House Library). Please CLICK here for MAP.

For more on the Vaisakhi Festival, please CLICK here.

April 13, 2013

read other articles in Travel